Notes from the atelier

Patina, polish, and the case for thoughtful wear

Platinum patina is the metal earning its history. When to polish, when to leave it, and the schedule we''d actually keep ourselves.

The single most common service-desk question we get: "My ring is scratched. Can you make it new?" Yes. Almost always. The better question is whether you should.

What patina actually is

On platinum, patina is a soft satin sheen that develops over years of contact — a result of millions of microscopic scratches reflecting light diffusely instead of in a mirror. Many platinum collectors prefer it to the high polish. It''s the metal telling you it''s been worn.

On gold (especially 18k yellow), patina shows up differently — warmer surface, slightly more matte, and on textured pieces the recesses develop a deeper richness. Some clients have us polish their pieces annually; others have never had us touch a piece they bought 20 years ago. Both are defensible.

When to polish, when to leave it

Polish when: a stone has come loose and the setting needs to be re-worked anyway; a piece is going to be photographed; a piece has visible deep gouges (not scratches) from impact. Leave it when: the wear is even, the prongs are tight, the stone is secure, and you like how the piece is aging.

The maintenance schedule we recommend

Prong inspection: every 12 months. Ultrasonic clean and inspection: every 18-24 months (free for clients on any piece we made or set). Full polish: only when warranted, never on a schedule. Replace tip-prongs as a preventive: every 8-10 years for everyday rings.

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