Vintage emerald-cut diamond ring inside a velvet ring box

Statement & Heirloom

The biggest stones, the longest stories.

Statement & Heirloom is the room with the biggest stones and the longest stories — cocktail rings, sculptural earrings, and pieces drawn to be passed down. Many are commissions; some are pulled from the archive.

4 pieces · From $1,200 · One-of-one cuts and estate stones

From the atelier

The first heirloom we built was a 1.9ct old-European reset into a single-prong basket, for a grandmother and her granddaughter.

When a piece in this room is one-of-one, we say so on the tile. When it can be remade — slightly different stone, different metal — it ships in eight to twelve weeks from the bench in San Francisco.

Vintage emerald-cut diamond ring inside a velvet ring box

The estate room

The pieces on this page rotate monthly.

Estate stones don't ship from a catalog. The Milena Heirloom and Sade Cocktail Ring shown here are representative photographs — each new piece in this room is built around a specific stone we've just sourced. We update the room every six weeks.

See this month’s stones in person

From the bench · GIA gemologist's note

What to look for in an heirloom-tier piece.

Heirloom pieces are bought once and worn across decades — or centuries. Here are the four things to weigh when you're buying for the second wearer as much as the first.

  1. Old-cuts read warmer than modern brilliants

    Old-European, old-mine, and rose-cut diamonds were cut by hand for candlelight. They have larger facets, deeper culets, and a slower fire — which reads as warmth, not flash, against the hand. The Milena Heirloom is built around old-European center stones for this reason.

  2. Estate-sourced is single-source, by definition

    Every old-cut diamond we source has a single previous owner, a single previous setting, and a single bench note from us on what we changed and why. We work with one estate dealer in Antwerp and one in San Francisco; both vetted in person.

  3. Colored stones — color comes before clarity

    For emeralds, sapphires, and rubies, color saturation matters more than clarity. A Ceylon sapphire with a velvet depth and a single visible inclusion reads richer than a clear sapphire with a flat color. We grade for the depth first.

  4. Heirloom pieces are built for the second wearer

    A statement piece you want to pass down should resize, restring, and reset cleanly across decades. We use forgiving prong geometries and oversize bezels — small details that let the next jeweler (decades from now) work on the piece without destroying it.

From sketch to box · How a commission goes

A piece of one, built across ten weeks.

  1. Conversation

    90 minutes in the atelier or by video. We sketch live; you bring stones, references, photographs of family pieces. No deposit, no commitment.

  2. Stone sourcing

    We draw on our partners — one Antwerp estate dealer, one San Francisco. We send you 3-5 candidate stones with bench notes and full GIA / GCAL provenance.

  3. Bench time

    10-14 weeks at the bench. CAD model, printed resin proof in your hand within 3 weeks, hand-built filigree thereafter. Photographed at every stage.

Begin your piece

The estate room is open by appointment.

The Sade Cocktail and Milena Heirloom shown online are representative; the stone in your piece is sourced after our conversation. Book a 90-minute viewing.